Woven fabric and method of weaving the same



(Specimens.)

G. H. HARVEY. I WOVEN FABRIC AND METHOD OF WEAVING THE SAME.

No. 472,216. Patented Apr. 5, 1892.

we Remus versus =o.. mnmumo -msnmarw, n. c.

NITE STATES GEORGE H. HARVEY,'OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

WOVEN FABRIC AND METHOD OF W EAVING THE SAME.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 472,216, dated April 5,1892.

Application filed November 28, 1890. Serial No. 372,830. (Specimens-l Toall whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GEORGE H. HARVEY, a citizen of the United States,residing at the city of Philadelphia, in the county of Philadelphia andState of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvementsin Woven Fabrics and the Method of Weaving the Same, of which thefollowing is a specification.

The principal objects of my present invention are, first, to provideacarpet fabric which is cheaper to manufacture than ordinary two andthree ply carpet fabrics and such as shall constitute an acceptablesubstitute therefor and for such costly upholstery fabrics as are nowemployed; second, to provide an inexpensive carpet fabric which shallpresent a multiple-ply color effect and which shall be heavier in weightand possess better weaving qualities than ordinary motley single-plycarpet, and,third, to provide an inexpensive, efficient, and expeditiousmethod of weaving such a carpet fabric by means of aloom provided with asimple form of jacquard.

My invention consists of an improved woven fabric having figuringchenille weft-threads passing from face to face thereof to constitutethe required pattern and form a cut-pile or full chenille surfacethroughout both the face and back of the fabric with spun warpthreads inthree sets or divisions, and two of said sets or divisions passing fromface to face of the fabric and tying said weft-threads and the other ofsaid sets or divisions lyingalong the middle of the fabric and directingthe weft-threads.

My invention further consists in the method of producing such a wovenfabric by employing a series of wefts in predetermined order and warpsin three sets or divisions, two for binding the wefts and one forcontrolling the disposition thereof, so as to produce the requiredfigure effect, and lifting one division of said binding-warpssuccessively and certain of said figure-controlling warps before theintroduction of each of the series of wefts,

and then lifting the other division of binding-warps successively andcertain of said figure-controlling warps before repeating theintroduction of each of the series of wefts in the sameorder, as will behereinafter more fully described.

In weaving acarpet fabric according to my invention preference is givento the employ-v ment of two divisions or sets of fine bindingwarps andone division of coarse and stiff warps, and there is in a loom forweaving such a fabric a plain harness for each set of fine binding-warpsand a Jacquard machine for controlling the heddles for the coarse warps.In weaving figured fabrics there is one operation of the Jacquardneedles for every pick of the loom and there is an operation of one ofthe pair of plain har: nesses for each operation of the Jacquardmachine-that is to say, the same plain harness is operated successivelyonce for each shot of different-colored weft-threads, and then the otherplain harness is operated successively in a similar manner. In weavingplain fab,- rics-that is, fabrics having a solid color upon therespective faces thereof-there is one opr vfigure-controlling warps, andthese divisions of the warps are manipulated in the following manner:One set or division of the binding-warps is lifted by means of a plainharness and journal and certain of the coarse warps are jacked up orlifted by means of a Jacquard machine, whereupon a shot of weft isintroduced. This weft goes to the back of the fabric wherever the figurecontrolling warps are lifted and to the face of the fabric wherever thefigure controlling warps are permitted to occupy their normal ordepressed position. All the warps are then returned to their normalpositions and the weft is beaten up by means of a lay and reed. The sameset of binding-warps is again lifted and certain others of thefigure-controlling warps are jacked up and a second shot of weft isintroduced. This second weft goes to the back of the fabric wherever thefigure controlling warps are lifted-that is to say, at the points wherethe first weft went to the face-and to the face of the fabric whereverthe figure- I controlling warps are permitted to occupy their normal ordepressed positionthat is to say, at the points where the first weftwent to the back. During the next operation of the loom the other set ofbinding-warps is operated in the manner above described and the weftsare introduced in the same order, so that the two divisions ofbinding-warps are operated by a journal and weave only plain sheds andthe figure-controlling warps are drawn tight and are operated by theJacquard machine. These figure-controlling warps lie between the twowefts and serve to direct the same to either the one or the other of thetwo faces of the fabric, according to the requirements of the pattern.

The nature and objects of my present invention will be more fullyunderstood from the following description, taken in connection with theaccompanying drawings, forming part hereof, and in which- Figure l is adiagrammatical view of a-section of the fabric, taken in the directionof the warp-threads-a'. e., a section through the weft-threads-showingthe character of the weave of a fabric embodying the features of myinvention. Fig. 2 is a similar view representing asection of the fabric,taken in the direction of the weft-threadsz'. e., a section through thewarp threads showing weftthreads of two different colorsseparated by thecoarse warps and appearing on the face of the fabric in accordance'withthe requirements of the pattern. arrangement of certain parts of ya loomand such as -may be conveniently employed for the production of myimproved fabric, and Figs. 4, 5, 6, and 7 illustrate diagrammaticallytheoperation of weaving the improved fabric by means of a loom arrangedin the manner illustrated in Fig. 3.

In the drawings, 1, 2, and '3 represent a warp in three divisions. Thetwo divisions l and 2 are binding-warps andmay comprise threads ofdifferent or of the same color; but reference is given to the employmentof threads of the same and of a darkcolor. The other division 3 is afigure-controlling warp and comprises coarse and stiff threads of cottonor other inexpensive material of any color. For the sake of perspicuityonly one thread of each set will be considered throughout the followingdescription, and it willbe assumed that twocolors-viz., redandblackarenecessaryto produce the required pattern. b representsweft-tlrreads of black chenille or black spun yarn, and 0" representsweft-threads of red chenille or red spun yarn. Preference, however, isgiven to the employment of chenille weft-threads, because by theiremployment a fabric having full chenille or cut pile faces is produced.

Referring nowto Fig. 1, the fine bindingwarps 1 and 2 pass from face toface of the fabric and constitute plain sheds containing the red andblack wefts 1' and b, and the figure-controlling warps 3 lie along themiddle of the fabric and direct the wefts r and b to Fig. 3 representsthe the face or back thereof, as will be readily understood by referenceto Fig. 2. The warpthreads 3 not only serve to direct the wefts to theback and face of the fabric, but also serve to give body and weight tothe fabric as a whole and to cushion the face and back wefts, therebypreserving the same longer against wear and tear and preventing what istechnically known as gazingthat is to say, the formation of gaps on oneside of the fabric through which the other face thereof can be seen.

In order that my invention may be more fully understood, a briefdescription will now be given of the manufacture of my improved fabricin two colors-to wit, red and blackand according to my improved methodof weaving.

Referring now to Fig. 3, the two divisions of fine warps 1 and 2 arecarried, preferably, uponthe same warp-beam w and are led in through thetwo harnesses a and (1*, adapted to be operatedby means of journals, andthe figure-controlling warp 3 is carried upon a secondwarp-beam w and isunder slightly greater tension than the divisions 1 and 2. The threadsof the division 3 are led in through the heddlesof a third harness a andthese heddles are adapted to be operated by means of a Jacquard machinein the usual or in any preferred manner. If the fabric is to be woven onan ordinary ingrain--carpet loom, these threads 3 would of course be ledin through the third and fourth harnesses and would be operated by theJacquard needles in sets of four and the journal-lift forthese twoharnesses would be dispensed with.

In weaving the plain portion of the fabric indicated by the letter P inFig. 1 the we'fts are introduced in a certain order-for example, blackand red-the harness a and warp l are lifted by means of a journal, and ashot of black weftb is introduced into the shed, Fig. 4, and appears atthe face of the fabric. The harness a is then lowered and'the weftbeaten up. The harness a and thread 1 are again lifted by the journaland certain of the threads 3 are jacked up, Fig. 5, and a shot of redweft 'r is introduced and appears at the backofthefabric. Theharnessaandthreads 3 are then lowered and the Weft beaten up. At the nextoperation of the loom the harness a is raised, so that the warps 1 and 2form plain sheds throughout the fabric and the warp 3 lies along themiddle thereof.

In weaving the figured portion of the'fabric indicated by the letter Pin Fig. 1 the two shots of wefts are introduced'in the same order-thatis to say, first black and then redand the harness a and thread 2 arelifted by the journal and certain of the threads 3 are jacked up and ashot of black weftb is'introduced into the shed and appears at the backof the fabric, Fig. 6. The harness a and threads 3 are then lowered andthe weft is beaten up, Fig. 6. The harness a is again lifted by thejournal and a shot of red Weft is introduced into the shed, Fig. 7, andappears at the back of the fabric. The harness a is then lowered and theweft is beaten up. At the next operation of the loom the harness a islifted, so that the warps 1 and 2 form plain sheds throughout the fabricand the warp 3 lies along the middle thereof.

Thejournal-lifts may be dispensed with and all the threads may beoperated by means of a Jacquard machine; but, good results have beenobtained in practice by the employment of journals, and hence preferenceis given to their use.

Having thus described the nature and obj ects of my invention, whatIclaim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. The herein-described woven fabric, comprising figuring chenilleweft-threads passing from face to face of the fabric to constitute therequired pattern and form a cut pile or full chenille surfacethroughoutboth the face and back of the fabric and spun warp-threadscontrolling the figure effect, introducing said 7 4 wefts singly, andoperating the binding-warps once for every two shots of weft and certainof the figure-controlling'warps once for every shot of weft, for thepurposes setforth.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my signature in the presence oftwo subscribing witnesses.

' GEORGE H. HARVEY.

Witnesses:

A. B. STOUGHTON, RICHARD (J. MAXWELL.

